Tag Archives: argentina

Getting Hitched in Argentina – Part II

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So we did the dang thing! We still haven’t decided how to combine our last names yet. Everything worked out in a mostly-planned, partially-improvised brew-ha-ha (no idea how to spell that) that joined friends from many countries. The best part was they all got along instantly. I was expecting that, but it was amazing to watch. One of my best friends surprised us by flying in from Morocco. All of this is going to keep me smiling for months and months to come. I never planned to get married, let alone in Spanish. At the ceremony beforehand I had to ask how you say “I do.” It’s “Acepto.” Judge Antonia Pinelli did a fantastic job. She was official without being officious and has such a warm heart. She did a pretty bad job with my name though, but a laugh is always good during something like this. She called me Sirli Mah-ree-ay Ñeuman instead of Sharlene Marie Newman. My favorite bit was when she said our marriage is important to the Nation of Argentina. Thank you Argentina, and thank you to our wonderful witnesses Alicia and Hugo.

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They gave us the official paperwork and the Libreta de Familia wherein we’ll enter our children’s names when that time comes. It’s used for traveling purposes. In the opening pages it talks about what marriage means and gives reasonable rules for naming children. One of which is that you shan’t give a kid more than three first names, nor can you give them any names that are “ridiculous”. I love it! I have always liked the name Fahrenheit. Exotic or ridiculous? Next we have to have our papers “legalized” and stamped in Argentina and then sent to the Hague. Whoa. I hadn’t realized that beforehand. This means that anywhere in the world that has matrimonio igualitario will recognize our legal bond – and in the US, too, since DOMA hit the dustbins of history.

After the ceremony we had some champagne in the park. Yes, you can have open containers publicly in Argentina. Guess what? There are no more drunks wandering around there than anywhere else. Then we went to a Tenedor Libre, which is an all-you-can-eat buffet of pasta, salad, grilled meats, desserts and more for about 12 bucks a person. From there we headed to Terra Nostra in Luján de Cuyo, which is 16 km from the city center and surrounded by vineyards. It is a series of 7 cabins that could use some updating, but holds 40 people. There is a pool, large patio, kids park toys, a foosball table and a huge grill pit area. It is perfect for a small wedding or family reunion. We had cocktails by the pool as the sun was setting. We also went to the Termas de Cacheuta. It’s maybe an hour bus ride from the city, surrounded by mountains with plenty of great restaurants, massage therapists and shops in the area all for very reasonable prices. There are hot and cold spring pools and a lazy river. The place is magical.

Saturday we did a private ceremony with friends that was fully improvised and very fun, ending with a helium balloon launch into the sky. From there the caterers set up shop by the grill station and the sit-down dinner became a stand-up affair. Terra Nostra also has a large dance hall where the deejay set up. We watched video toasts from friends, danced a bit of the Chilean Cueca and generally shook our asses until the early hours of Sunday. I like this being a “Mrs.” thing.

If you have any questions on procedural stuff in Argentina or the border crossing or whatnot, let me know.

Getting Hitched in Argentina

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Want to get married somewhere that’s not home? Maybe you don’t want your entire extended family of third cousins present, or maybe you’re part of the LGBT community and you can’t legally wed in your home country. Argentina could be a good option, particularly for Spanish speakers or those willing to hire interpreters. The matrimonio igualitario (marriage equality) covers everyone whether a citizen or not. Once married and you’ve gotten your documents “legalized” or stamped for foreign validity, your marriage will be recognized in whatever country you may live or work in that has equal marriage rights. Example, a Chilean friend was going to live in Germany for several years. The only way to bring her partner with her for an extended stay without applying for a visa was to get married. Since gay marriage is legit in Germany, this worked for them – even though in their home country of Chile it is not yet recognized. This is changing here, with the recent passage of civil unions for gay and straight alike, but that’s a different article.

The paperwork can be confusing though, so my future wife and I went to Mendoza recently to find out which bureaucratic hoops we had to jump through. This is Latin America after all. We went to speak with the folks at two different Registros Civiles (town halls, essentially) to ask about the requirements. Each office does things a bit differently, and it always helps to be especially gracious when dealing with the government employees. All of the funcionarios we spoke with were EXTREMELY friendly and helpful. One option is the Matrimonio Móvil, where they will come to your ceremony morning, night or weekend. The fee for this is 3,300 Argentinean pesos – roughly 380 USD on the official exchange, or maybe half that on the black market. It’s not hard to find people who want your dollars or euros. It is illegal however, so if you get screwed over you have no recourse. The civil ceremony at the office is totally free. If you choose the ‘mobile’ route, you must also hire a transportation company (there are bunches) to pick up your particular justice of the peace to bring them to and from your wedding site. These are the differences.

Whichever route you choose, you must follow these procedures:

1. Show up at the office exactly 30 days prior to your chosen wedding date to simply request the wedding. In our case, since we were already there even though it well in advance, the kind woman allowed us to set the date then and there. This goes back to my point about being extra friendly and also how each registro civil kind of sets its own rules.

2. You must have a pre-wedding meeting ALONG WITH your chosen witnesses. They can be from anywhere in the world, but the easiest thing is for them to be Mendocinos if you get hitched in Mendoza, Bonaerenses if in Buenos Aires… you get the idea. If not, you have to establish a temporary “residency” for said witnesses. It’s not hard, and only costs a few bucks – but they have to then be present with you in the same geographic location for both the meeting and the wedding of course.

3. Within a week of the wedding, foreigners to-be-hitched must also establish this fictional residence. We have chosen to use the pensión we always stay at as our address (of course we asked them first if it was okay). Bear in mind that the address you select can affect which Registro Civil to get married at. Our address is Mendoza city proper, so we can marry at the office inside the beautiful, giant park San Martín. You take the form given to you at the registro civil along with your identification (passport or permanent residency ID card of whichever country you reside in) to a notary public (called escrivano in Argentina and notario público in Chile) and they will give you back documentation proving your temporary residency is in said geographic locale. Yeah, it seems weird, but this is their way of allowing foreigners to get married in Argentina.

4. Technically, the official word is you need to bring your birth certificate, but both offices said that it really doesn’t matter if you don’t have it. Supposedly they like to use them to get the parents’ names right on the wedding certificate.

5. The last main thing required is a syphilis test. Yep. They changed the marriage laws, but this old one is still on the books. It is free, and they give you the information on where to get it done when you attend the prenuptial meeting. The results will be given back to you the very next day and have a validity period of 7 consecutive days.  The libreto de familia and any other odds and ends will also be given to you at this meeting.

6. After the wedding, you take your libreto and other documents to get “legalized” meaning they are stamped and ready to be used abroad. This cannot be done on the same day, but it can be done by a third party and then mailed to you elsewhere by a friend or acquaintance.

From what I understand, Mendoza is the most expedient area of the country to get married. Everyone so far has treated us (two women) extremely well. They’ve even commented that they think Chile, Perú etc. should decide to join the 21st century sometime soon! Mendoza is also an absolutely charming place to spend some time with a cornucopia of vineyards, hot springs, museums and restaurants in the area. It is not expensive – unless you want it to be. It can be hard to find a place that will hold a reception for fewer than 100, and if you’re not from there, it’s unlikely you’ll be importing more than 100 family members and friends. Unless maybe you have way too much money in your bank account. If anyone wants more specifics or has any questions, I can always share more about my personal experience. Oh, also, don’t forget about the visa entry fee for USers, Aussies and Brits.

And lastly, I can’t believe I’m actually getting married. Who knew?!?

Mendoza, Argentina

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Many foreigners spending time in Chile think of Mendoza, Argentina as a place to do a visa renewal run and little more. I believe now you can pay a fee and extend it without traveling, but Mendoza is still worth a visit. Unfortunately, the Argentinean government is desperate for cash so they’ve expanded the entry tax fee from only airports to any means of entry and you have to prepay online. This covers Australians and Unitedstatesians traveling for tourism or business, and Canadians traveling for tourist purposes. If you are a resident of a MERCOSUR country but not yet a citizen, and your identification states that you are from one of these three countries, they will still charge you. The payment lasts for ten years, even if your passport doesn’t. You can just give them the number and they’ll look it up and confirm you’ve paid if you no longer have the original. If prepaying online here, print out your PDF to bring with you. Scroll down to Online Instructions under Tasa de Reciprocidad.

Manos Tijeras

Manos Tijeras

This place feels like Chile and Argentina had a romantic fling that resulted in a mini-city. This hybrid nature is most easily recognizable in the linguistic blend. They’ve got the ‘cachai’ and ‘huevon’ variants of Chile, but choose ‘vos’ and put the accent on the penultimate syllable in the imperative, leaving out the stem-change as Argentines do. Instead of ‘siéntate’ for example, they say ‘sentáte’. Of course that last accent mark is superfluous; I just put it there for emphasis.

Yerba Mate with flavors; passion fruit, pear and mint.

Yerba Mate with flavors; passion fruit, pear and mint.

Mendoza also looks like a small version of Buenos Aires with pasta, pizza, steak and fernet everywhere served in unique cafés that have much more style than does Chile. Fernet is one of the most consumed alcoholic beverages in Argentina, originally from Italy. The liqueur itself is made with a number of bitter herbs and is technically a digestif, but most drink it as a mixed cocktail with cola. The soda makes it sweeter. It’s a unique taste that can’t be compared to anything precisely, but is similar in style to other stomach-soothing herbal liquers. The coffee in Mendoza and Chile is bad. Tea is more typically drunk in Chile, while yerba maté is the thing in Argentina as well as southern Chile. I think that accent mark in the English spelling serves to distinguish it from ‘friend’ or rhyming ‘mate’ with ‘ate’. However, the stress is on MA.

Hot water dispensers for mate on the go. Nice.

Hot water dispensers for mate on the go. Nice.

The center of the city is Plaza Independencia, a very large square with two indoor theaters as well as two outdoor staging areas for live music and kids’ shows. Artisans line one entire strip of it, extending for several blocks where talented improptu rock bands and evangelical Christians share space. I like these evangelicals. They set up shop and are there to talk and hand out literature, but don’t get in your face with microphones while shouting about Satan. How refreshing. These particular artisan offerings are honestly the most unique, quality pieces I’ve seen so far in any Latin American country. I got myself a handcarved mate cup made of Algarrobo wood. It’s got one of the typical Argentinean keys folded onto the side as a handle, like those old school ones seen in children’s animated movies.

There are four smaller plazas found equidistant from the central one: Chile, San Martín, Italia and España. Each has a unique design and setup. It’s worth it to walk around the different barrios to find the various art museums, beautiful buildings and food districts. The Sarmiento strip that cuts through the central plaza is the size of a street, but for pedestrians only. This is where you’ll find a lot of bad coffee and average food. Walk on by. Las Heras street on the northwest side near the Plaza de Chile is the center of the Tenedor Libre spots, or all-you-can-eat. Don’t make my mistake of going there in the late afternoon. This city shuts down for siesta time. I forgot about siesta, because it’s not a thing in Santiago. They have distinct lunch and dinner hours. The best meal we ate there was on Arístides Villanueva moving westbound, passing up Plaza Italia. Marce and I had two bottles of delicious Argentinean syrah, and dinner that included two empanadas as an appetizer, juicy steak, salad, side and dessert plus a fat tip for about 35 USD total. That’s nuts. Great service as well. The area is considered a “gastronomic zone” and you can wander up and down the street until you find something that suits you on one of the spacious outside patios or hip interior spaces.

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There is plenty of lodging, but I will definitely recommend where we stayed. It’s near the bus station on Don Bosco called Alojarse en Mendoza. Not too original on the name, but the space is an old family building converted into lodging with high-ceilinged private or shared rooms. I had booked a private room with shared bathroom via email and didn’t have to put down a deposit. When we arrived they gave us a room with a private bath and patio as well, simply because it was available – and at the same price. It was about 45 USD per night and included an excellent breakfast of yogurt, granola, dried fruit, various teas, croissants with dulce de leche and hot ham breakfast sandwiches, a wide variety of teas, juice and yes, instant coffee. They prepare it for you at the hour you wish. If you want to be ignored, don’t stay here. They will help you plan any tour or give you tips on anything you’d like to do or see. Alicia will also engage you in long conversations if you let her. But as she’s funny, interesting and a joy to talk with, that’s not a bad thing. When we left we told her we’d be seeing her the next time we return to Mendoza. She says that we can stay even if we don’t have any money and then just pay her whenever we can. Who says stuff like that?

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Mendoza is the heart of Argentina’s wine-making region, and I’d like to return for the vendimia [grape harvest] sometime. This trip we spent time listening to live classical music instead. The International Classical Musical Festival is a ten-day event each April with a variety of artists playing in the city and at each of the different wine bodegas. The tickets are only offered in exchange for powdered milk. No cash, no online sales. So we bought the milk and found the office to trade it in and we were told they had no more tickets. Not cool. Well we went to four concerts anyhow. After they let the ticketed folk in, if there were seats left, they’d let us in. There was always plenty of available seating.

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From Santiago, Mendoza is only six or seven hours by bus, as long as the mountain pass isn’t closed with snow. If traveling in winter, you’ll likely have to fly. The view driving through the mountains is spectacular. The leaves were changing into fall colors and many of the peaks are naturally pink in color. There are restaurants, shops, horses and small businesses dotted throughout the drive. Oddly, I had expected to see little en el camino. There is nothing better than staring out the window at gorgeous scenery, watching it all shift and twist as you snake through the Andes.

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Chileans Say the Darndest Things

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A Mexican pal of mine who lives here in Chile told me that he couldn’t understand anything his first few months living in the southern cone. He wanted to cry daily because he couldn’t understand these people speaking his native language! As a non-native speaker that made me feel a lot better. I would leave an academic class taught in Spanish feeling as if I understood everything, but outside of that room everything would change. Colloquial language is nothing like the formal business. Additionally the Spanish-speaking world has so many shades and variations between regions, countries and even cities. Think Mobile, Alabama meets NYC or Wales. These differences are very marked in Chile; for example, between the super-arid, driest desert in the world northern part and Patagonia at the bottom of the country/world. Even inside Santiago, the capital, there are a lot of differences between the classes. Someone from the barrio alto has a particular type of pronunciation and lilting intonation that indicates I am cuico! Cuico is sort of like snob and describes those who look down their noses at anyone who doesn’t have the same kind of cash or last name as they do. On the other side of the spectrum is a totally different type of speech or coa that includes a lot of idioms that not everyone can understand outside of that group, sometimes called flaite. Brand name clothing tends to make the flaite stand out. In fact, it is believed that the word flaite comes from Nike’s swoosh logo as it sounds like the word flight. I was robbed once by a pair of flaites. I couldn’t understand a thing they were shouting at me. I understood they wanted my stuff, which included exactly two dollars, my ID card, a used pair of earplugs and a Winnie the Pooh notebook. Ha! All my valuables were safely ensconced within secret interior pockets. Double ha!

Do you speak Spanish? Give this one a whirl. A possible conversation between friends passing through a local fresh produce fair in Chile:

“Oye, hue’on. Teni plata que me prestai pa’ comprar unas paltitas?”

“Sí, poh, obvio. No se’ ahue’ona’o. Cuanto querí, y cuando me pagai?”

“De’pue’ de la pega. Me llamai como a la’ cuashro. Si no me pesquai, me busquai en la casa de mi polola.”

“Ya, bacán.” “Chaíto!”

And you dear language learner, cachai? Translation from “Chilean” into Spanish:

“Oye amigo. Tienes dinero que prestarme para comprar unas aguacates?”

“Sí claro. No seas ridículo. Cuanto quieres, y cuando me pagarás?”

“Despues del trabajo. Llámame como a las cuatro. Si no contesto, búscame en la casa de mi novia.”

“Ok, excelente. Adiós!”

Just a little different, huh?

After learning Spanish I learned Chilean, although it does change all the time. Chileans tend to be very creative and funny with language. It seems that its geographic location would affect its difference as well. This country is as long from top to bottom, as the US is wide, snaking it’s way from the South Pole up to Peru along the spine of South American. The Andes Mountains separates it from Argentina to the east. The western border is the Pacific Ocean. With the dessert, sea, mountain range and the frigid pole, Chile is a little bit isolated. There was also a fair amount of political and cultural isolation going on during the dictatorship from 1973 to approximately 1991 when the country began to open up more. Chilean music, movies and slang are flowing out of the country at a faster rate every year, and increasing numbers of foreigners come to Chile to live, work, study or vacation as well. I have a blast trying to figure out what everyone is trying to say, sometimes laughing my ass off all by my lonesome, looking like an insane foreigner. Come on down!